General Maintenance Tips on Taking Care of A Tank
1) The bigger
the better: Contrary to popular belief small tanks are
harder to balance and maintain than a 20 gallon tank. The larger
the tank the easier it is to stabilize water chemistry,
temperature and to maintain cleanliness. However, HBH is
focusing on giving you a successful 1 gallon to 10 gallon
experience. Soon we'll have Small Tank Set Ups for you to see
how fun a small tank can be. The important thing is not
overstocking fish and taking care of maintenance.
2) Don’t get in over your head: Research
the requirements and compatibility of your inhabitants before
you make your purchase. This will save money, heartache and in
turn create a more positive experience. For example, goldfish
are not tropical fish and will not appreciate aquarium
temperatures commonly associated with fish like tetras, barbs,
cichlids and livebearers.
3) Know the basics: Read and understand
the nitrogen cycle before setting up an aquarium.
4) Don’t settle on just any fish: Take
time to inspect the fish before you buy. They should have a good
robust body shape, good color and alert eyes and posture. If you
notice split or damaged fins, swollen or damaged eyes, damaged
gills and/or body, facial and lateral line pits, abscesses on
head and or body, clear stringy feces, clamped fins, unusually
dark coloration and/or if the fish is penned into the corner,
these are not good signs and should be avoided.
5) Start slowly: By under stocking or
stocking slowly, your tank will be more efficient at colonizing
beneficial bacteria, you will loose less fish and the nitrogen
cycle will become established faster with less dramatic spikes
in ammonia and nitrite levels. Even after the “cycle” is
established, overstocking can lead to inevitable problems.
6) Getting your fish home: When placing
new fish in your tank, float the bag for 10-20 minutes to
acclimate them to your tank temperature.
7) An ounce of prevention: Use a
quarantine tank whenever possible. A quarantine tank is used to
house newly acquired fish for a period of time (generally 2-4
weeks) to determine, before introducing them into an established
tank, whether they are disease and parasite free .
8) Think ahead: When planning a planted
tank set up, it is advisable to add as many plants as you can to
stifle the growth of algae.
9) If one is good, two is not always better:
Avoid overfeeding. Your fish should be fed no more than what
they can eat in 2-5 minutes; two times daily should be enough.
Don’t be fooled by a fishes ability to “look hungry” as this is
generally just a conditioned feeding response when you approach
the tank. Another important fact: bettas do not feed off
the roots of plants.
10) Keep it up: Maintain a regular
water-changing regimen. By removing and then replacing 25-30% of
your tank water- minimum- per month, will dilute toxins such as
ammonia and nitrites as well as reduce phosphates that
contribute to algae growth. While the above regimen is the bare
minimum, 10-20% can be done weekly or bi-weekly and will
actually keep your tank and its inhabitants healthier in the
long run. Large volume water changes (50% or more) can be
stressful on your fish. Be sure that your replacement water is
the same temperature so as to avoid any adverse effects. If
chlorine or chloramines are present in your replacement water
you will need to use a product that renders these harmless,
HBH’s Tank Prep or Bowl Prep products are a perfect choice.
11) Don’t forget: Vacuum gravel once per
month or as needed. Begin by inserting the vacuum end into the
tank and start a vacuum, then push the vacuum end into the
gravel about 1-2 inches (follow manufacturers instructions as
they tend to vary slightly). This will allow you to leave the
gravel behind when doing a water change while pulling out
unwanted debris and toxins. Repeat this over the entire surface
of your gravel. If you have live plants, be careful not to
uproot them. This will not destroy or eliminate the presence of
beneficial bacteria. However, if vacuuming is not done
regularly, accumulated toxins may be released into the tank
environment, and under gravel filters may become clogged,
leading to severe problems.
12) Clean up: Clean all sponges and
reusable filter media in aquarium water (not in aquarium).
Siphon some of the original tank water into a bucket or separate
holding receptacle. You can then rinse filter media and squeeze
sponges in water that has no chemicals and is of the same
temperature. This will preserve enough acclimatized water in the
tank to sustain the beneficial bacteria, without fouling your
tank water. Never sterilize these components unless contaminated
and never use tap water as it may destroy beneficial bacteria.
13) Boost it up: Small amounts of
gravel, filter media and/or water from an established tank can
help to jumpstart the production of beneficial bacteria. You can
also use a biological boosting product such as HBH’s Terminite
for the very best results.
14) Know what you need: Understand water
additives and follow all instructions before using. These types
of products should only be used when necessary. It is a common
myth that you need every water treatment and chemical out there.
You don’t! You only need the ones that fit your particular
needs. Over use of these products makes it difficult to
understand what is really wrong when a problem arises. Keep it
simple.
15) Lights, action: The use of timers on
your lights will give a consistent photoperiod for your fish and
plants. This will also increase the ability of your species of
fish to spawn and similarly stimulate plant growth.
16) Stress management: The use of a
background will reduce the stress on your fish. Fish feel more
secure when not exposed on all sides. In the case of a bowl,
bowl decorations are important.
17) Be prepared: Two medium heaters
rather than one big one, can help to avoid dramatic drops in
temperature if one of them fails. Set one to the desired
temperature and the second just below that. This will allow you
to observe any fluctuations in temperature and help to determine
if one of your heaters is not functioning properly. Two medium
heaters can also help to heat your tank more evenly. This will
not overheat your tank, as one is set below the other and will
only come on if the temperature drops low enough.
18) Think back up: It is not a bad idea
to also use two types of filtering systems in your aquarium. It
will help keep your aquarium cleaner as well as creating a
backup in case one fails.
19) This is not pop art: Choose aquarium
furnishings to imitate your fish’s natural environment as
closely as you can. Aquarium related books, natural science
books and magazines and the Internet are great sources of
information when considering the correct furnishings. A more
natural looking habitat will reduce the stress on your fish and
be far more appealing to the eye.
20) Zen: Information is the key to a
successful experience in aquarium keeping. Books and magazines
are invaluable sources of information that should never be
overlooked and can only lead to success, inspiration and
rewards. Joining a local, national or even international
aquarium club will enhance your success rate and put you in
contact with knowledgeable people with similar interests.
Learning about all aspects of this exciting hobby will
contribute greatly to your enjoyment and may spark your interest
in other types of aquarium environments. Never be afraid to
experiment, but be willing to do your homework.
The Nitrogen Cycle
By Mike Hook
HBH Research Institute
Introduction:
Every aquarium hobbyist should understand the fundamentals of
the nitrogen cycle (sometimes called “new tank syndrome”) before
entering into the exciting hobby of aquarium keeping. Knowing
this cycle will enable both the beginner and the long-term
hobbyist to better understand what is going on inside the
artificial environment he/she has created and, in turn, provide
a successful and more positive experience.
• Important note: When setting up an aquarium for the
first time, it is advisable to stock very few fish---only one or
two danios, minnows, sm. Goldfish or damsels per 10-20 gallons.
Feed lightly, and use a biological boosting product like
HBH’s Terminite to help build up beneficial bacteria. Keeping a
low level of fish stock for the first 4-6 weeks will decrease
fish loss and increase your level of success. Test kits are an
invaluable tool so don’t be afraid to use them.
Nitrification:
Nitrification is the process by which toxic ammonia (NH3)
and non-toxic ammonium (NH4+) are converted into nitrites
(NO2-/toxic) and then nitrates (NO3-/non-toxic in low
levels).
Ammonia & Ammonium:
The first stage of the nitrogen cycle, in aquarium water, begins
when proteins break down into ammonia.
Proteins are found in fish wastes, uneaten food, and other
decaying organic matter (detritus from plants or dead fish).
The conversion or decomposition of these materials begins
the necessary and natural cycle of the home aquarium.
However, if left unchecked, this cycle can be one of the
most detrimental.
Ammonia is easily and rapidly dissolved in water and can quickly
cause a variety of problems. Ammonia is
readily found in a pH level over 7.0 (neutral) and increases as
the water’s pH and temperature increases. Ammonia produces low
levels of ammonium, a relatively non-toxic
chemical. Ammonium is predominantly present
in lower pH environments (6.9 or less) and doesn’t carry the
multitude of problems associated with the more toxic, ammonia.
However, it should still be kept in check. Due to high
salinity levels, ammonia is 30% less toxic in salt water.
Ammonia contributes to a large number of physiological problems
in fish and invertebrates. Some of these are: 1) The reduction
of hemoglobin’s ability to carry oxygen to the blood.
2) An increase in respiration activity contributing to
more ammonia buildup. 3) The irritation of
gills caused by the deterioration of the mucus layer.
This leads to swelling and in some cases the formation of
new cells on the lamellae (known as hyperplasia).
This further impairs the up take of oxygen.
High levels of ammonia can also lead to the sloughing off of the
mucus membrane on both the skin and the intestines creating
lesions or external bleeding and internal bleeding of the
organs. The brain and central nervous system can also be
permanently damaged. Stress related illnesses accompany high
levels of ammonia and poor water quality. If
left unchecked, such conditions can prove fatal to your fish
population.
Nitrites
The second stage of the nitrogen cycle is the conversion of
ammonia to nitrites through the aerobic activity (oxygen
dependant) of the Nitrosomonas bacteria. Nitrites are less toxic
than ammonia but should never be over looked. Fish and
invertebrates can experience several devastating side effects
from nitrite exposure. High nitrite
conditions impede the blood’s ability to carry oxygen by
oxidizing the iron into methaemoglobin.
Methaemoglobin can’t carry oxygen in the blood and this in turn
may cause the blood and gills to turn brown and/or lead to
eventual death. This process also breaks
down red blood cells and very high levels may cause nitrite
poisoning, an almost always fatal condition.
Nitrates
The conversion of nitrites into nitrates is the third and last
step in the nitrogen cycle. This is accomplished by the
oxidization of nitrites by Nitrobatcer bacteria and the
conversion of more dangerous nitrites into less harmful
nitrates. While nitrates are less harmful than nitrites (most
fish seem to be able to withstand much higher levels of
nitrates), they are still of concern especially for marine
aquarium hobbyists. This fact is important
if you have invertebrate species in your tank, i.e. Discus,
Geophagus sp., some dwarf and African cichlid varieties found in
the Great Lakes. These species seem to be
particularly sensitive to high levels of nitrates and can thus
suffer from stress induced illnesses. High
nitrate levels can also have damaging effects on the fry and
eggs of most species. In addition, the
presence of nitrates can lead to stunted growth and stress
related illness. Almost all aquarium problems stem from poor
water quality and by performing water changes the trouble can be
reduced significantly.
Problem solver
To be successful with your home aquarium, it is important to
regularly test both the tank and replacement water for ammonia,
nitrites & nitrates. As stated in the
introduction, new tanks need to move through the nitrogen cycle
for about 4-6 weeks, after which time the appropriate balance
can be maintained by a regular water changing regimen.
As often as possible (every other week or at least once a
month) 10-30% of the water should be changed. Along with
changing the water, clean and/or replace
filter cartridges, and vacuum substrates to remove accumulated
detritus (organic waste buildup). Remember, if your
incoming tap water is high in any of the above compounds then it
will be necessary to use RO (reverse osmosis), deionized, or
other clean water sources. You can also use various types of
removing agents along with skimmers and denitrators.
However, nothing beats regular maintenance and close
monitoring of your aquatic environment.
References
Andrews, Exell, and Carrington. The
Manual of Fish Health. :Blacksburg, Va.:Tetra Press, 1988.
Axelrod, Burgess. African Cichlids of
Lakes Malawi and Tanganyika. Neptune
City, NJ.: TFH Publications, 1978.
Green. “Treating the Problem.” Aquarium
Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Jan, 1998.
Hovanec. “Water Quality – Freshwater.
” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA.
June, 1996.
Hovanec. “Nitrifying Bacteria – Part 1.” Aquarium Fish
Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Dec,
1996.
Hovanec. “Nitrifying Bacteria – Part 2.”
Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA.
Jan, 1997.
Hovanec. ”The ABC’s of Filtration.”
Aquarium Fish Magazine.
Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Aug, 2000.
Loiselle. The Cichlid Aquarium.
Morris Plains, NJ.: Tetra Press,
1985.
Meyer. “ Water Quality – ponds.”
Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo,
CA., USA. June, 1996.
Meyer. “Pondering Water Testing.”
Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA.
Nov, 2000.
Meyer. “Biological Pond Filtration.”
Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA.
Dec, 2000.
Miller. “A Filter is a Filter is a….”
Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA.
Aug, 2000.
Mills. You & Your Aquarium – A Complete
Guide to Collecting and Keeping Aquarium Fishes.
NY: Borzoi Book, 1986.
Morgan. “Testing the Water.”
Aquarium Fish Magazine.
Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Aug,1999.
Skomal. Setting up a Freshwater Aquarium.
New York, NY:Howell Book House, 1997.
Sprung. “Water Quality – Saltwater.”
Aquarium Fish Magazine.
Mission Viejo, CA., USA. June, 1996.
Riehl. Aquarium Atlas 1.
Blacksburg, VA: Mergus (Baensch), Melle, W. Geermany &
Tetra Press, 1996.
Walstad. Ecology of the Planted Aquarium.
Chapel Hill, NC: Echinodorus Publishing, 1999.
Also read, The Nitrogen Cycle
